Ibble Gordon, David Crockett, and the New York Times, Chicago Tribune, and St. Louis Post Dispatch

Galveston Evening Tribune, February 8, 1894

In late 1893, Ibble Gordon was almost 90 years old. Born in 1805, she came to Texas in 1821 as “a grown woman” and settled along the Red River near Pecan Point. How a story she told came to be printed in the Galveston Daily News and repeated in major newspapers around the United States is unclear, but it demonstrates the power of repetition.

If you have heard my presentation on the treasure legend of Hendricks Lake, you have heard me repeat a quote that “legend remains victorious despite history.” Aunt Ibble’s account may fall into that category. Like most legends, however, it is infused with facts that make it bear repeating.

Mrs. Gordon told the story of how in 1834 she heard that David Crockett of Tennessee was coming to the Red River before heading farther south into Texas. Clarksville had been founded in 1833 and she rode on horseback with another young lady on the saddle behind her about four miles out of town.

That Crockett would detour toward the Red River settlements is unsurprising since the population was largely made up of other Tennesseans. When Aunt Ibble heard he was coming she hoped that he wouldn’t take the “old Trammell trail,” a path that pre-dated the founding of Clarksville by decades.

Ibble and the two young ladies with her were introduced to Crockett. She said he was “dressed like a gentleman and not a backwoodsman.” There was no coonskin cap. She found him to be “a man of wide practical information and was dignified and entertaining.”

Whether Aunt Ibble’s recollections from almost 70 years before her retelling of the story were entirely factual or not is insignificant. Other documentation records that Crockett passed through there and spent some time hunting in the Red River prairies. He enjoyed his time there so much that he wrote his wife about it:

"I expect in all probibility to settle on the Bordar or Chactaw Rio or Red River that I have no doubt is the richest country in the world good land and plenty of timber and the best springs & mill streams good range clear water--and every appearances of health game plenty. It is in the pass whare the Buffalo passes from North to South and back Twice a year and bees and honey plenty.

Running across Aunt Ibble’s description of her meeting David Crockett again puts me in a mindset where historical accounts can be more fully appreciated. We know Crockett passed through the Red River. The only way to get from there to Nacogdoches, where a ball was held in his honor, was down Trammel’s Trace.

What makes these reports more intriguing is to put ourselves there. We have been told how Crockett dressed, at least on this occasion. Imagine the house, the smells coming from the kitchen, the voices of what were surely more than a few people anxious to meet famed Crockett. Did Aunt Ibble curtsy or fawn over meeting the well-known Crockett? People likely fell silent when Crockett spoke, and he was not one to shy from that kind of attention.

We can make historic moments more present by re-imagining them as real in our present moment. To be Aunt Ibble on that day would indeed be something worth recording.

Sources:

Polly Ross Hughes, “Davy Crockett's last letter in Texas' hands,” Houston Chronicle. September 5, 2007. https://www.chron.com/news/houston-texas/article/Davy-Crockett-s-last-letter-in-Texas-hands-1805683.php.

Galveston Daily News, December 17, 1983.

New York Times, January 29, 1894.

Galveston Evening Tribune, February 8, 1894.


Landing a Manuscript and Enjoying the View

130,000 words in 852 typed pages.
862 footnotes, a bibliography with 358 citations, and 8 appendices.

Those are the stats on the manuscript I submitted today for a new book in collaboration with Tom H. Gann. On the anniversary of mankind’s first landing on the moon, July 20th will now be a personal milestone to celebrate.

The working title for the book is Bridles and Biscuits: The Contraband Culture of Spanish East Texas. It examines a period that one author called the last chapter of the Spanish drama in Texas. Antonio Gil Ibarvo was the center of contraband trade in Nacogdoches during that time. The little-known story of his arrest and removal from office is covered in detail. The book also describes the lost Spanish settlement of Bucareli on the Trinity River, where the re-population of Spanish East Texas began after the missions were closed.

In the almost two years since this project began, there has been a COVID-19 pandemic during which key archives were closed. The digital repository for the Bexar Archives, a critical primary source, went dark for months to undertake an unplanned migration to a completely different platform. The resulting learning curve both for the archivists and researchers has been steep. The challenges of research where much of the source material is in Spanish have been aided by translators, online tools, and by squinting at displays of 250-year-old script.

This milestone is not at the level of the moon landing, but I think I will still take some time to enjoy the view from here before shifting gears to the work required to get this thing in print. Next launch……2024.

The book manuscript has landed. Time to enjoy the view.

History Worth Saving? Trammel's Trace is says Ava Richey

Each year, the Texas General Land Office sponsors an essay contest for 4th and 7th-grade students, the two grades where Texas history is taught. This year the statewide contest encouraged students to promote their communities’ history by answering an important question: What history in your community is worth saving?

Ava Richey, a 4th grader from Omaha, Texas answered that question —- Trammel’s Trace.

Ava lives near visible ruts of Trammel’s Trace in Cass County north of Hughes Springs. Family friends own land with remains of Trammel’s Trace, and the Trammel’s Trace historical marker on Highway 77 near Dalton Church identifies the road as well. in her essay Ava explained how Trammell and those who came before and after him “left behind an old road between Arkansas and Texas that was a road between the past and the future of an entire region and its people.”

Ava Richey, 4th grade essay finalist from Omaha TX

As one of the finalists, Ava received a $100 gift card courtesy of the Sons of the Republic of Texas – Moses Austin Chapter and Buck Cole. In addition, all winners and finalists received a Save Texas History backpack and t-shirt; a Certificate of Achievement signed by Commissioner George P. Bush; and other items from the contest sponsors and GLO online store. And yours truly sent her a limited edition “Rut Nut” T-shirt.

The names of the two Grand Prize winners and all the finalists can be found online at Save Texas History. Ava’s essay is found below and on the Trammel’s Trace “Rut Nut” Facebook Group.

Congratulations, Ava, for Paying History Forward!

Retracing the Steps of History

One of the joys of this project is communicating with people whose discovery of my book on Trammel’s Trace leads them to physically connect with its history.

Jennifer Judkins, in an article titled “On Things That Are Not There Anymore,” explores the notion that a physical connection to history is vital to creating an emotional link to events and people from the past. She explains a critical aspect of how we connect to our past by declaring that “our appreciation of things that are not there anymore is enriched when we understand and value what is missing, and when we have an accurate original location.” We must not only understand what happened and where, but we must also value it on its own merit and for our own personal reasons. In the past few weeks, my contact with two readers has highlighted that point.

Lisa Trammell Deaven at the DRT marker in Nacogdoches.

Lisa Trammell Deaven at the DRT marker in Nacogdoches.

A Trammell Descendant on Nick’s Route

Lisa Trammell Deaven is a descendant of Nicholas Trammell himself! When she gave her family the opportunity to join her on a point-to-point trip following that history they could not say no. Okay, literally could not. (She may have dragged them, but who says no to a Trammell?).

They started in Nacogdoches at the Trammel’s Trace DRT marker in Banita Creek Park, followed the route through Tatum, and made their way all the way up to Fulton and Old Washington on the other side of the Red River.

They even made a valiant effort at finding the location of Nick’s Taven east of Old Washington using coordinates I sent. Lisa relished in what she correctly identified as a “Nicholas Trammell trailblazer-frontiersman-smuggler-sketchy-resourceful-pioneer-entrepreneur celebrity status I’m carrying.” As she should!

What came through clearly was Lisa’s sense of joy and discovery in connecting her family history to a broader history of Texas. And BEING THERE in places where old Nick trod made all the difference.

Vernon May’s stomping grounds.

Vernon May’s stomping grounds.

Old Stomping Grounds

Connecting personal history and Texas history happened differently for Vernon May. Mr. May, an 82-year-old iPad user, explained that he grew up around Dalton, Texas in the 1940s and 50s and that he and a friend “roamed all over that area hunting arrowheads.” Like my own story, he knew nothing about Trammel’s Trace at the time.

Though Mr. May is unable to roam the woods now, his memories of the terrain were vivid. Upon seeing the Google Maps route of the trail (in Maps tab) he recognized that the Trace “came down the dirt road in front of our house, went through a wooded area, crossed a road to Bryan’s Mill and then on to Dalton and Old Unionville.” He said that when he would go through the woods to his grandparent’s house, he somewhat remembered a trail.

Like Lisa’s trip, history became personal. May said “It has really been an interesting trip back thru history following the part of Trammel’s Trace I have been associated with. Just wish i had known several years ago what I now know so I could have traveled the Dalton area following the Trace.”

The History of Where We Stand

Places across East Texas that seem mundane or forgotten are alive with history waiting to be discovered and understood. These two have sought that history out, and in doing so have made themselves part of it. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!

Finding a Historic Intersection

“My friend and I cut our way through the brush and briars to find the spot!”

Jim Clarke, weed whacker and “rut nut.”

Jim Clarke, weed whacker and “rut nut.”

That was the email I received a few days ago from Jim Clarke, the intrepid President of the North Texas History Group, reporting on a venture with Gary Farrar, a member of the group. The “spot” he was talking about was the intersection of the Spanish Trace from Pecan Point with the main branch of Trammel’s Trace near the Sulphur River.

When I asked Jim about the North Texas History Group, he explained that they research locations in Texas history and then visit them to learn more. They have looked at sites related to the death of Philip Nolan, a noted horse smuggler, in 1801. They have visited both the site of Jonesboro and Pecan Point, two important, early Anglo settlements on the Red River. Jim has also visited two sites related to Trammel’s Trace.

Here is what Jim wrote about his experience looking for this intersection of two historic trails.

TRIP REPORT BY JIM CLARKE

On May 26, 2021, the North Texas History Group put another plume in its cap as member Jim Clarke and newly minted member Gary Farrar set out to discover the secrets of Trammel’s Trace in Cass County.  For the uninitiated, Trammel’s Trace was the first trail into Spanish Texas from the north.

Beginning about 1813, Nick Trammel, a mustang smuggler, tavern keeper, gambler and apparently a general lowlife, sought a route to transport mustangs he caught in Texas and smuggle them to Arkansas and to other markets in the US.  Nick used pre-existing trails created by Native Americans and buffalo, deer, and other animals and exercised great ingenuity to put together a route from Fulton, Arkansas southward through Spanish East Texas to Nacogdoches, which was located on the Camino Real.  From Nacogdoches, one could access San Antonio and other locales in Texas.

Spanish Trace 5, Ruts.jpg

Thanks to Gary Pinkerton’s intensive research delineating the route used by Trammel, and revealed in Pinkerton’s book, Trammel’s Trace, the First Road to Texas from the North, we were able to locate the route of Spanish Trace (and actually SEE that trace) which courses south from Pecan Point on the Red River.  We followed its route about a tenth of a mile where it intersected Trammel’s Trace, about a mile and a half off Texas Highway 77 in Cass County.

Map overlays available on Gary Pinkerton’s website allowed us to locate where the intersection of these two ancient traces is located.   This 2021 expedition required one’s commitment to go in many places where no path exists now, to navigate a creek a few times, and go through much heavy growth of thorny bushes, trees, and oceans of poison ivy and poison oak.   But I must say, it was well worth the effort!  We found the location and whooped it up!  Major accomplishment!

Future trips to East Texas are planned to further investigate the thrill of discovering our past as we “chase the Trace” in upcoming expeditions.


THE HISTORY OF PLACE

The experience that Clarke and Farrar had in locating remains of these historic roads certainly qualifies them as “rut nuts.” Their effort, and the focus of their group, also emphasizes the important of place when it comes to our understanding of history. A new book project on Spanish East Texas begins with a reminder of this fact.

Making a physical connection to the place where something historical occurred is beyond merely being an observer. The connection can take us to a far more profound and inexplicable part of our humanness in ways that are difficult to explain. When I put my hand in the river at an ancient trail crossing and run the water and sand through my fingers, it connects me somehow to the same experiences that others have had for centuries. Holding an arrowhead or a pottery sherd that is 9,000 years old makes one wonder who held it before.

Thanks to Jim and Gary for sharing their experience. To share their excitement check out this video!

Jim Clarke, excited by their find.

Paying History Forward . . . the right way

Molly Richey, undergraduate student at Jacksonville College.

Molly Richey, undergraduate student at Jacksonville College.

in the past couple of years, I’ve been talking about the concept of Paying History Forward. This notion is about how to connect people to history in a way that gets their emotions involved in history by making it personal.

Molly Richey is a student at Jacksonville College. Through connections with her grandmother, a teacher there, and Casey & Melinda Betts, TTR landowners north of Hughes Springs, Molly came up with a great idea for a project for Undergraduate Day. She chose to do her research and presentation on Trammel’s Trace.

Molly visited the ruts at the Betts’ farm, and the Texas Historical Marker near Dalton Baptist Church on Highway 77. Her full report won’t be released until February 23, but here is a very special preview.

Her poster is below, and you can check out her video by clicking here. You can learn more about the competition from this article in the Jacksonville Daily Progress.

You look great in that Rut Nut t-shirt, Molly. It makes me happy to see interest in Trammel’s Trace jump to your generation!


TRAMMELL'S TRACE FINAL.jpg

Turnouts are Simply Human

When British geographer, George William Featherstonhaugh (prounounced Fan-shaw), made his well documented journey across Arkansas in 1834 he not only made observations about the flora and fauna, but about human behavior.

turnout sign.jpg

As he crossed the Mississippi River at Hix’s Ferry, the road was cut nicely and trees were blazed to find the right path. Closer to Little Rock, however, he learned that no one was responsible for the road and conditions deteriorated.

If a tree fell across the road, rather than move it, horses or wagons simply went around it. The same with mud holes, rocks, and stumps. Turnouts like these were normal, and eventually became the main path. At least until they too were rutted and worn and then another turnout would form.

Planners today call these “desire paths” . . . the routes that humans create by preference. Only 15 cut-throughs can create a desire path and they can appear in the least necessary situations. This photo is from a nice walking trail Mickey and I use on a path made for EXERCISE.

The Turnout.jpg

So why the turnout was needed is inexplicable, except by saying it is just what we do. We humans will find the easiest, shortest way between two points no matter what. So a tip for all you architects. . . build the buildings but hold off on the sidewalks. We’ll show you where they need to be.



The Lying Art of Historical Fiction

historical_fiction.jpg

Historical fiction is a dangerous genre for writers.  

Some readers despise the way that facts and outright mistruths can be ground into a story like so much hamburger and then fed back to the reader as a comfortable and completely inaccurate story or timeline. The main character in the movie Braveheart, William Wallace born in 1312, was said to be the child of a man who died in 1305 and a woman who would have been nine when he was born. Blatant ignorance of facts ruins a work like that for many people.  

On the flip side, readers love the way that historical situations and settings can come to life by way of a writer’s focus on the likely thoughts and emotions of historical figures in real settings from the past. Two of my favorite authors, Stephen Harrigan and Elizabeth Crook, have mastered the balance of historical accuracy and emotional leverage in a way that few have been able to establish. Crook’s calendar of tiny, penciled notes kept her on track with historical details, including the weather, for her writing of Promised Lands.[1]    

Having written work myself with hundreds of footnotes, which I call the root canal of writing, I’ve pined for a work that would absent them entirely and let me make some stuff up. It is not that easy, yet I still peck away at an outline for a work of historical fiction and play the scenes in my head like a movie. Emotion is a habit for which there is no 12-step program – thankfully. As readers, we crave it.  

Gunpowder Wind.jpg

In the past few months, I’ve run across a couple of works of historical fiction focused on the time and place of my primary interest, pre-Republic East Texas. I rather accidentally discovered a decent little book of historical fiction with a terrible title, Gunpowder Wind. This 1988 paperback is by a couple of authors who did a series of books for a “Best of the West” collection of a trade press, Dan Parkinson and David Hicks.  

Despite what I think is a ridiculous title and cover photo, this story is not half bad to read. It is about the Battle of Nacogdoches in 1832 and calls forth some of the key characters of the region. Frost Thorn, William Goyens, Alexander Horton, and Colonel Jose de las Piedras figure in the story. Chief Diwali and The Egg of the Texas Cherokee are mentioned as well.   I found it first through interlibrary loan (the best invention of modern libraries), but now have my own ragged paperback via Amazon. As a fictionalized account it does a decent job with the circumstances of the uprising, but I really just enjoyed running across any story of early East Texas. If reading it would help resolve some of the under-appreciation of East Texas history, then I recommend it. Just put a piece of tape over the title and occasional over-the-top factual embellishments and read on.  

Shirley Seifert, Schlesinger Library.

Shirley Seifert, Schlesinger Library.

A better example of how this genre can engage readers was a novel I discovered only a couple of weeks ago. At the King’s Command, a 1962 novel by Shirley Seifert (1888–1971), dramatizes the expulsion of Spanish subjects from Los Adaes, the former capital of Texas, just west of Natchitoches, Louisiana. I’ve been unable to find this book anywhere except interlibrary loan. The story of Antonio Gil Ibarvo and the Adeseños as they are forced to leave their homes and finally started the permanent settlement of Nacogdoches in 1779 is compelling and engaging. Seifert was a skilled writer with over 20 historical romances and a Pulitzer Prize nomination in her resume. She was one of the six founders of the St. Louis Writers Guild in 1920.[2] Her sisters, Elizabeth and Adele, were writers as well.  

Kirkus Reviews called it an “able reconstruction,” the kind of almost-a-compliment that would cause many writers to grit their teeth. They report that “a historical incident is filled in with details of Antonio's long struggle, of Spanish policy in the new land, of the incidents in the lives of the uprooted people, and the temper of the times comes alive.”[3]  That was my own assessment as well. I very much enjoyed the stories yet know enough about the timelines and personal histories to wrinkle my nose at occasional abuse of known facts. In the end, good writing wins and I felt I knew the characters more fully, even if not fully factual.  

I am currently researching that particular event, along with many others, during a period in East Texas from the mid-1700s until the time when filibustering revolts like the Gutièrrez-Magee expedition began to flare up around 1812. The interplay of cultures, nations, commerce, and struggle are unlike any other period in Texas history. The pivotal nature of events in East Texas and our Spanish history in general are sorely overlooked in the bigger picture.  

Though fabrications must not be offered to the point of readers accepting them as fact, there is value in a constructive filling-in-of-the-gaps with the emotions likely stirred for the people involved. An article by The Guardian titled “The Lying Art of Historical Fiction” pointed to none other than Shakespeare as a guide.  

“He knowingly conflated historical characters in historical plays. He deliberately misnamed others. Sometimes he gave them attributes that were the very opposite of their real characters. And yet he made the drama of their lives meaningful for us so that we remember who they are.”[4]  

It is in remembering who the characters of history were as people where we find a place for engagement. That is how we pay history forward.


Looking Back 240 Years to Wish Nick Happy Birthday.

Today, on January 13, 2020, we can observe the 240th birthday of Nicholas Trammell. Feliz cumpleaños in Spanish and alihelisdi udetiyisgvi in Cherokee, languages he would have routinely encountered during his time in Tennessee, Missouri, Arkansas, and Texas.

Trammell was born in 1780 just outside of what is now Nashville, Tennessee. When I was thinking about what to write to recognize his birthday, I recalled again how the years of his life were incredibly pivotal in the history of our nation and the state of Texas.

My former mother-in-law was almost 100 years old when she died and it is incredible to think about all she saw in her lifetime. For Nicholas Trammell, his span of years was just as remarkable. 

“The Station Camp - Dogs and Deerskins” by David Wright. Used with permission. www.davidwrightart.com.

“The Station Camp - Dogs and Deerskins” by David Wright. Used with permission. www.davidwrightart.com.

The Trammells and the Mauldings, his wife's family, were early arrivers into the Tennessee-Kentucky settlements, holding key offices as justice of the peace, sheriff, and captain of the militia. Trammell grew up in the county where Andrew Jackson had his legal practice. When he left Tennessee and began settling in the Missouri Territory it was only five years after the Louisana Purchase.

Along with other Tennesseans, Nick was among the earliest Anglo settlers to push into Missouri, Arkansas, and ultimately to Pecan Point on the Red River when Texas was still Spanish territory. When it became Mexico, he tried to head south into Austin's colony like many others but was rejected due to his poor reputation.

In the leadup to the Texas Revolution, it was his presence at a Trinity River crossing of the El Camino Real that led to his expulsion from Texas, and to the Fredonian Rebellion in 1826.  Trammell spent the next 25 years in Arkansas along the roadways increasingly filled with other Anglo immigrants to Texas. When he and his family finally moved back to Texas, where he died in 1856, he had seen Texas move from Spain to Mexico, to Republic, and finally to statehood. The explosion in the population and the increasing loss of the "frontier" of East and Central Texas was complete. Cotton and slavery had come, and Texas was never the same.

"Watching His Backtrail" by David Wright. www.davidwrightart.com

"Watching His Backtrail" by David Wright. www.davidwrightart.com

Nicholas Trammell lived on the periphery of some of the most pivotal events in our history, and in the middle of more than a few. May we always remember how he and other ancestors paved the way through their own hardship and loss. . . . and won a few horse races along the way.

Thumbnail for the article: 
"Watching His Backside," by David Wright.  www.davidwrightart.com

 

Losing the Trail - Trammel's Trace and William's Settlement

It’s hard to believe that is has been 15 years since I first heard about Trammel’s Trace. Besides the book and the history of the road and of Nicholas Trammell, I’ve worked with others off and on to locate the remains of this historic route.

All along the route from Fulton, Arkansas down toward Nacogdoches there are surveyor notes that tell us where Trammel’s Trace was during the early years of the Republic. Some Mexican land grants provide even earlier indications. From those known points we can follow the terrain and likely route, and with the help of landowners, find swales and ruts along the way.

Are these the remains of Trammel’s Trace as it passes through William Settlement?

Are these the remains of Trammel’s Trace as it passes through William Settlement?

That is until we get to a point just south of the Old Shiloh Baptist Church about six miles northeast of Mt. Enterprise on Highway 315. That is the last surveyor’s call for Trammel’s Trace. From that point south, around Mt. Enterprise and toward Nacogdoches there are no documented points on the ground. The trail is lost there.

This illustration of later roads is from the 1932 Rusk County GLO Map #76688 (click for map).

This illustration of later roads is from the 1932 Rusk County GLO Map #76688 (click for map).

But now we are going to try and find it. And have a good idea where to look.

Although there are no survey calls, there are other indicators. Some swales along a county road, commissioners court minutes assigning road overseers in the 1850s, Mexican land grants, and other tidbits of information help us focus on a likely path.

But there is one big “find” that would help speed things along, and that would be to know the location of Williams Settlement. Williams Settlement was not a town per se but a gathering of pre-Republic Anglo settlers with close ties to the Cherokee. As early as 1821-1822, Thomas Williams and his sons moved into an area just southeast of present Mt. Enterprise on the east side of the Angelina River’s east fork. High bluffs overlook the creek bottom.

The Williams’ sons were notable in early Texas history. John “Cherokee” Williams and Brooks Williams were both killed by Indians, even though their families reportedly intermarried with Cherokee. Leonard Williams was a trader and spoke many native languages. He was in the party that negotiated with Chief Diwali before the Battle of the Neches in 1839, and later became one of Sam Houston’s Indian commissioners. He lost an eye in the Siege of Bexar before the battle of the Alamo. Their Mexican land grants, the first in what is now Rusk County, came as a result of supporting the “old settlers” in the Fredonian Rebellion. It may have even been members of the Williams family who during that uprising chased Nicholas Trammell off the land he’d been given at the Trinity River crossing of the El Camino Real.

It is very probable that the route of Trammel’s Trace passed through the land settled by Thomas Williams and his extended family. Twenty miles north of Nacogdoches they were in a place where their interaction and trade with the Cherokee in the area could be carried on without constant attention from the Mexican soldiers in Nacogdoches. They were close enough to be counted in the 1835 census, but far enough not be watched over closely.

A few landowners in that area of Rusk County who may be along the route of the Trace within Williams Settlement have been invited to a discussion and presentation to learn more about what may have happened in Texas history on land that they own. By involving people in their own part of Texas history it helps us keep Paying History Forward. . . that’s what it is all about.

Paying History Forward

Google tells me I can’t take credit for coining that phrase. . . there are other hits. . . but I am going to take credit for giving it fresh meaning.

I started talking about Paying History Forward in an article for Texas Heritage magazine, published by the Texas Historical Foundation (click here to read). What I’m hoping to express is this — history is far more than dates, events, and boundaries. It is about more than the heroes of the times, or the famous people about whom we read.

James Hudson, his son, and his grandson all have an interest in protecting their part of Trammel’s Trace.

James Hudson, his son, and his grandson all have an interest in protecting their part of Trammel’s Trace.

Paying history forward is what James Hudson is doing. J.N. has family land just north of our family’s farm in Rusk County along the Trammel’s Trace corridor. J.N. has his son, Clay, and his grandson both fully engaged in the history of their place, and the importance of Trammel’s Trace.

Paying history forward is having the Stone Fort Chapter of the DRT erect a marker and monument for Trammel’s Trace in Nacogdoches, there for all time.

Learning the history and passing it on is what it’s all about.

Who Keeps Count of Birthdays After 150 Anyway?

Nick Trammell would have been 239 years old on January 13, 2019  . . . but who's counting?

Trammell was born in 1780 just outside of what is now Nashville, Tennessee. When I was thinking about what to write to recognize his birthday, I recalled again how the years of his life were incredibly pivotal in the history of our nation and the state of Texas.

My former mother-in-law was almost 100 years old when she died and it is incredible to think about all she saw in her lifetime. For Nicholas Trammell, his span of years was just as remarkable. 

“The Station Camp - Dogs and Deerskins” by David Wright. Used with permission. www.davidwrightart.com.

“The Station Camp - Dogs and Deerskins” by David Wright. Used with permission. www.davidwrightart.com.

The Trammells and the Mauldings, his wife's family, were early arrivers into the Tennessee-Kentucky settlements, holding key offices as justice of the peace, sheriff, and captain of the militia. Trammell grew up in the county where Andrew Jackson had his legal practice. When he left Tennessee and began settling in the Missouri Territory it was only five years after the Louisana Purchase.

Along with other Tennesseans, Nick was among the earliest Anglo settlers to push into Missouri, Arkansas, and ultimately to Pecan Point on the Red River when Texas was still Spanish territory. When it became Mexico, he tried to head south into Austin's colony like many others but was rejected due to his poor reputation.

In the leadup to the Texas Revolution, it was his presence at a Trinity River crossing of the El Camino Real that led to his expulsion from Texas, and to the Fredonian Rebellion in 1826.  Trammell spent the next 25 years in Arkansas along the roadways increasingly filled with other Anglo immigrants to Texas. When he and his family finally moved back to Texas, where he died in 1856, he had seen Texas move from Spain to Mexico, to Republic, and finally to statehood. The explosion in the population and the increasing loss of the "frontier" of East and Central Texas was complete. Cotton and slavery had come, and Texas was never the same.

"Watching His Backtrail" by David Wright. www.davidwrightart.com

"Watching His Backtrail" by David Wright. www.davidwrightart.com

Nicholas Trammell lived on the periphery of some of the most pivotal events in our history, and in the middle of more than a few. May we always remember how he and other ancestors paved the way through their own hardship and loss. . . . and won a few horse races along the way.

Thumbnail for the article: 
"Watching His Backside," by David Wright.  www.davidwrightart.com

 

Decembers to Remember

Our cousins in the more northern latitudes have a different relationship with December than we do here in East Texas. During a recent vacation in New Hampshire and Maine we found things starting to shut down "for the season" on Columbus Day. In North Carolina this week, I saw signs coming out in preparation for closing part of the Blue Ridge Parkway due to the coming weather. Here in Texas, even with a crazy one-day snowfall like we just had, winter is just now becoming the time to get outside.

River.jpg

In Texas Decembers past, much the same was true. The later months of the year, after all the harvests were completed, was a time for moving about the country. Reminders of those December moves are found all through the history I researched for Trammel's Trace.

In December 1820, Moses Austin arrived in San Antonio, working to gain permission to bring 300 Anglo colonists into Mexican Texas. A year later, Daniel Shipman and his family were on the move toward that new colony. Shipman and his family moved along with other Tennesseans to Arkansas in 1819, and then to Spanish Bluff on the Red River. They followed Trammel's Trace from Pecan Point to Nacogdoches on their way to Austin's colony.

By December 1824, Nicholas Trammell and his family had moved south as well, ending up on the Trinity River at a crossing of the El Camino Real. The land he occupied was part of an ownership dispute with an old Spanish landowner named Sartuche.  At the end of 1826, Trammell was chased off the land in a precursor to the Fredonian Rebellion.

Stephen F. Austin, in December 1826, wrote the Mexican governor to say there are "some bad and rebellious men, who must be expelled from our country." Those bad men issued their short lived Fredonian Declaration of Independence on December 21, 1826.

Weather made December travel more tolerable, but we all know winter to be the wet season at times, and snow can surprise us at any time. On a chilly Christmas Day in 1841, Josiah Gregg, a diarist and frontiersman, traveled up Trammel's Trace. A light snow fell on the group as they crossed the Sabine River at Ramsdale's Ferry. He noted the river was only a "half leg deep, so forded easily" (pause here to shiver).

As Mickey and I make our way up interstates and paved highways to Alto and Caddo Mounds State Historic Site today for a presentation, I'll be thankful for the temperature controls inside the truck and revisit all these December events warmly indoors.

A Matter of Perspective

In a state as diverse as Texas, it is surprising that we are only just beginning to understand that one's view on history is determined by perspective. A radio story by the Texas Standard points out that Anglos were the first undocumented immigrants to Spanish Texas (story here). What some call battles, others call massacres; liberation for some may be an expulsion for others. 

Concepts of Manifest Destiny led Anglos to believe they "owned" land that was occupied and settled by others.

Concepts of Manifest Destiny led Anglos to believe they "owned" land that was occupied and settled by others.

I am on that thought because in looking back at notable November events in Trammel's Trace history, one of the most significant in both the history of east Texas and later the Texas Revolution, was also was a major event in the life of Nicholas Trammell.

On November 25, 1825, Trammell laid claim to a league of land on both sides of the Trinity River crossing of the El Camino Real. The problem with that was that it was already owned by a Spanish citizen named Ignacio Sartuche. Haden Edwards, an empressario given a contract by Mexico, used heavy handed tactics to illegally grant land to Anglos like Trammell. 

The relationship between Trammell and Sartuche is like many of old Nick's acquaintances -- a mix of patronage and dominance. There is evidence that Sartuche continued to live on the land, and that Trammell may have helped him with food and supplies. Trammell may have been living there a year prior to the claim.

Sartuche tried to reclaim his land in December 1824, but the sale continued. Ultimately, this led to an entirely different story about how Trammell was evicted from the crossing, his half-brother was killed by Martin Parmer, and the whole series of events led to the Fredonian Rebellion. The rebellion was one of a growing number of attempts to wrest Texas from Mexico.

Texas heroes, or land-grabbing invaders? Perhaps simply opportunists in either case. 

Six days after Trammell's eviction, Ignacio Sartuche's Trinity River land claim was resurveyed. Sartuche walked the boundaries with the surveyor and exercised the typical Spanish demonstrations of ownership. Sartuche gave thanks to God as he pulled up weeds and tossed them in the air. At each of the corners, he tossed stones and cried aloud, perhaps tossing one in the direction of Trammell's hasty retreat. Dirt and stones flew behind Trammell as well, but only those loosened by his horse's hooves as he escaped north up Trammel's Trace.

 

Trammel's Trace State Park??

If a group of Tatum-area citizens had their way, Martin Creek Lake State Park would have been named Trammel's Trace State Park. 

Not long after Martin Lake was built to supply the lignite-based power plant, efforts to get the state to build a park got underway. In June 1975 while the park idea was gathering steam, Rusk County Judge James Porter was given a petition from 84 Chapman area residents suggesting the park be named after Trammel's Trace. Judge Porter and State Representative Ben Z. Grant had both heard from others in Tatum, led again by Cecil Williams, long-time publisher of the Trammel Trace Tribune, the weekly paper for Tatum. The Tatum Garden Club and the Tatum Kiwanis Club were both in support.

It certainly made sense since the old trail followed the eastern edge of the lake. In some places it was just beyond the dam and in others the lake covered the former route.

A year later, in July 1976, the new park was ready for opening but still had not been finally named. The group promoting Trammel's Trace State Park was still beating the drum, but a smaller group had begun suggesting Harmony Hill State Park, named for the old settlement just to the north of the lake.

When Williams personally carried his the petition to the state, Texas Parks & Wildlife spokesman, Mike Herring, told him there were priorities in naming. In order they were prominent geographic features, outstanding natural resources, significant historic events or people, and several other lesser options. The Martin family, descendants of earlier settlers whose land was inundated by much of the lake, lobbied for the name it would end up with. The Martin family cabin salvaged from the area to be flooded is now at the Depot Museum in Henderson. Even though the Trammel's Trace name seemed to fit the bill, the park was instead named Martin Creek Lake State Park.

Honestly, the name has always confused me a bit. Is it a creek, or is it a lake? Yes, I know it is a lake made from a creek, but still. Same feeling when I see streets named such-and-such Parkway Drive Circle or something like that. Pick one!  :)

There was a Trammel's Trace Marina for a time, where boaters and bank fishermen could buy bait for some fine crappie fishing. But then there was discussion about closing the lake due to selenium releases from the power plant. Now that things have settled down and miles of Trammel's Trace have been dug up due to lignite mining, maybe its time to start that petition again.

Regardless of the name, Park Superintendent Nic Maloukis has been working to better interpret the history of the region and provide visitors with more information about Trammel's Trace. You can even walk part of the old Stagecoach Road from Tatum to Henderson. Martin Creek Lake State Park is a fine place to visit whatever it is named.

1975-06-09, Longview News-Journal, p 7C, Trammel name for State park.jpg

Longview News-Journal, June 9, 1975, p 7C

1976-06-20, Longview News-Journal, p 11A, Martin Lake park named Trammell.jpg

Longview News-Journal, June 20, 1976, p 11a

Martin cem rd 2.jpg

Remains of old county line road along route of Trammel's Trace that had to be relocated when the lake was built. This is looking south from Martin Cemetery. Photo by Gary Pinkerton.

The Biggest Event in the History of Trammel's Trace

The research never stops. Just found these yesterday. More below.

On May 5, 1977, one of the biggest single events in the history of Trammel's Trace took place in Tatum, Texas. That was the day almost 500 people turned out at the football stadium for the presentation of the Trammel's Trace bicentennial marker that stands there still.

Cecil Williams, the longtime publisher of the Trammel Trace Tribune, led a community effort to get the marker. Local history students, along with the Tatum Garden Club, helped raise the money. Elementary students dressed as Caddo Indians and Anglo pioneers danced on the football turf. There was even a Trammell descendant there, a Dan Trammell, who seemed not know much about the history. Evelyn Corry Appelbee of Henderson read her poem which memorialized the people who used the road over the centuries. The county judge and commissioners, the Lion's Club, the president of Panola Junior College, and other local dignitaries were all in attendance. What an event!

As I have talked about in my own presentations, one of the presenters also understood even then the challenges of preserving this old road. "The recent importance of lignite as a fuel source has brought the are a renewed economic boom, and with this unparalleled growth comes the threat of Trammel's Trace being forever lost," Those words, spoken by Tony Christian, head of the high school's language department, still ring true today.

Now if I can get some of those people to order a book . . . Gary

Applebee Poem.jpg

Poem by Evelyn Corry Appelbee of Henderson, read at the dedication.

1977-05-05, Longview News-Journal, p 2, Trammel Trace Marker.jpg

May 5, 1977, Longview News-Journal, p 2

1977-05-06, Longview News-Journal, p 16B, Tatum marker.jpg

May 6, 1977, Longview News-Journal, p 16B

1977-05-06, Marshall News Messenger, p 1, Trammel Trace Marker.jpg

May 6, 1977, Marshall News-Messenger, page ONE

The People Who Keep History Alive

History is a kind of introduction to more interesting people than we can possibly meet in our restricted lives; let us not neglect the opportunity. Dexter Perkins

"I think my wife helped you with your book." That was the subject line of an email I received last week. What it had to say touched me personally. His wife, Kristi, who had helped me understand Trammell family genealogy very early on, died last year. When my book came out, a friend sent him a copy, and he said he cried a little when he realized what it was about. And I teared up a little in appreciation for him letting me know.

His note started me thinking about all of the people I've met over the years of doing this project who have also passed away. I have had the good fortune to meet people who have been pillars of the preservation of history -- people who have been incredibly influential.

"Buffalo" Ed Talley, Gary Pinkerton, Sam Dickinson - 2007, Prescott, Arkansas

"Buffalo" Ed Talley, Gary Pinkerton, Sam Dickinson - 2007, Prescott, Arkansas

I was able to speak with Mary Medearis, the sage of SW Arkansas tales and history before she died. Through an introduction by "Buffalo Ed" Talley, I was able to meet "Mr. Sam" Dickinson in Prescott, a 93 year-old who had traveled north and south America collecting primitive art and artifacts. Dr. Gordon Pettey wrote about the Smuggler's Road around Nacogdoches and was an original gadfly. Judge Jim Lovett from Red River County was an amazing legal historian and his enthusiasm for playing history detective was infectious. Gail Martin at the Southwest Arkansas Regional Archive not only knew her history, but was just the most wonderful person you could ever meet.

It wasn't just people who wrote about history whom I've met, it was people who were part of it. Henry SoRelle and his brother A.C. were part of an effort in 1958-1959 to find the Hendricks Lake treasure. Diana Waldrop Herring was the daughter of Barnie Waldrop, a Carthage TV repairman with treasure dreams of his own. She pushed the plunger to dynamite the bottom of the lake and instead of treasure only found piles of fish and snakes floating to the top.

The stories each of these told me not only contributed to the story of Trammel's Trace, but their own unique personalities became part of how I understood the stories they told. Truly, meeting people like these has been the best part of this work. It makes one realize how delicate history is in the hands of those who cherish it and pass it on, and how important it is that we receive what they offer and cherish it ourselves.

I am thankful.

And someday I'll tell the story of how I traveled to the middle of Arizona to meet an 80-year-old hard hat diver only three weeks before he died.

 

 

The Tranquility of the Inhospitable Wilds

Ever since I read that phrase, I was captured by the sound of the words and the images it conjured up. For a time, it was even the working title for this book. I loved the way the words rolled. Wiser thoughts prevailed when it came to the title, but it still lingers for me.

When the United States acquired the Louisiana Purchase from France in 1803, the boundary with Spanish Texas was ill-defined. Tensions along the border In October 1806 led to a stand-off between Spanish and US forces along the Sabine River between Nacogdoches and Natchitoches. In a letter to the Spanish General, Antonio Cordero y Bustamante, General James Wilkinson commanding the US forces used the phrase. In seeking to avoid a battle, Wilkinson said he would "risque the approbations of my Government to perpetuate the tranquility of the inhospitable wilds." (See whole document at the Portal to Texas History

General James Wilkinson, commander of US forces in the Neutral Ground, 1806

General James Wilkinson, commander of US forces in the Neutral Ground, 1806

It is that juxtaposition and contrast of the two words that attracts me still because they seemed to so readily capture the earliest years of Trammels Trace. It is difficult to fully imagine the beauty of east Texas in the early 1800's. No human had as yet cleared land, cut trees, or plowed fields. The rivers ran true to their bounds, whether muddy or clear, and the only sounds heard were those made by nature. Early diary accounts mentioned making contact with very few people along the entire 180-mile route. Images of enormous cypress, pine, and oak come to mind, with very little undergrowth except in the river bottoms. A beautiful and tranquil image indeed.

Yet within that imagination I must remind myself of the separation and distance from anything that might have been considered as civilization. Along Trammel's Trace in the years before immigration grew in 1821, there was nowhere to turn in an emergency, no place of refuge or protection. One ate what they carried or killed along the way. Wooded places of beauty were impractical for farming, and without farming few were able to keep themselves fed and alive. The inhospitable was never far beneath the image of tranquility and peace. Death was there in the wilds if one did not protect themselves from it.

The "tranquility of the inhospitable wilds" is a phrase that will stay with me for while. Someday my artsy impulses may use it again.

The Adventures of Writing

Adventure and writing?  I know it sounds bookishly exciting in a somewhat boring way, but the nature of the unexpected when it comes to putting a book out into the universe really has been adventurous. 

Back on November first, I wondered out loud about the travails of public response to such a work as this and feared the "red pen effect" with Texas historians. But I could not be more pleased with the feedback from readers. I've heard of the book devoured in a day, and gotten praise for using primary research to further the topic. I signed a book for Don Henley (shhhh) and hope that he was pleased as well. The response has been supportive, both from everyday readers and from those with credentials. 

A big part of the adventure has been being on the road doing presentations and book signings. My expectations have been exceeded by the support of folks who have organized and publicized the events, and the turnouts in small towns across east Texas. I've stood in restored courtrooms, in a room full of art, and near a mule-drawn sugar cane press. In Hughes Springs the event was on the big digital sign board, and in Jefferson I was taped by local cable. Meeting people is the best part of this and though Mickey and I are worn out, the fact that the reception continues so positively is really neat.

Four months into this project we have sold out the entire first printing and another 500 books are now in the warehouse. It's been rewarding to see how word of mouth and social networks have extended the reach of the story of Trammel's Trace. As I  hoped, I'm very excited that new interest in the road is stirring among landowners and county historians. There is talk of two new markers focused on Trammel's Trace.

The real adventure is that this pebble in the pond keep expanding. Thanks to all of you who have been a part . . . so far.